8b onsight

[THE SAM]

Just saw on 8a.nu that darkhorse, Alan Cassidy, onsighted a route given 8b in Gorges du tarn. He commented that it was 'disapointingly' easy (only 8a+ in reality) which is funny because i dream of finding an easy 8b to do, and not even to onsight.
Waddage
bo

[Zorro]

Total respect, even if it was only 8a +, its still an awesome effort! Impressive that he is honest about how it felt grade wise too.  Most folk would just keep quiet and take the tick! The Tarn seems to be quite a good destination for friendly ticks, is there not some famous 8a there that was written up wrong in the guide that is only really 7B+.  Would be good to know the name so I can put it on my tick list!!!!!!

[Cassidy]

Thanks very much guys.  RE being "dissapointingly easy", that is in refernce to the bizarre feelings that comes from setting off on what you believe is going to be an 8b, arriving at the top over the moon thinking "blimey I never thought I'd ever onsight anything that hard", being on cloud 9 until it sinks in that you haven't actually onsighted an 8b (dissappointing after thinking you had).  I am however very pleased with onsighting my first confirmed 8a+.

I'm sure other people have had the "disappointingly easy" experience.  I can think of a few so called E5s that I onsighted when I hadn't broken that grade yet only to realise that I still hadn't actually onsighted an E5.

Maybe there is a thread in their somewhere..."dissapointingly easy" routes anyone?   

[Zorro]

Can honestly say I have never done a route that is disappointingly easy.  They have only ever been refreshingly friendly!!!!!!

[Chris F]

I know when I get to the top of routes that are soft in the grade I always get a hollow feeling in my gut, as i know it wasn't really an onsight of that grade. Albeit at a considerably lower grade tha 8 (insert appropriate letters and symbols)!

Excellent effort.

[N Muir]

Maybe there is a thread in their somewhere..."dissapointingly easy" routes anyone?   

The only 'disappointingly easy' route I've done, was when I did the 2nd ascent of Central Route on Ben Nevis, I was expecting it to be harder.  Also, it must be the most disappointing Robin Smith route.

Anyway, it is best saying a route is easier after you have done it, like you have done, rather than what others do - down grade a route they have not done, so well done.

[whispering nic]

Grading is no accurate science. I can think of routes I did 15 or more years ago which seemed fair at the grade at the time but have been upgraded two or three grades in the intervening period. I've also been on french slab routes which were climbed in the 80's when everyone was wearing resin roses with steel shanks in the sole, and they are just crazy hard in modern boots, especially if you train on steep indoor boards all the time. In the same vein  alot of steeper routes suddenly got easier when people started building overhanging climbing walls and everyone got strong arms and a bit of stamina.These things tend to even out over time - take the tick I say!
I found Tarn deperate cos I thought it was pure stamina but all the routes I tried had cruxes - grades jumped up three slots overnight when we drove to Ceuse - but maybe I chose the wrong routes?

[Pitcairn]

Hmm, it a tricky one.  The last time I went to Tarn I onsighted some routes that seemed pretty easy for the grade - no hard moves just stamina and when you learn to shake out as you climb they seemed steady.  But having said that I did onsight routes at the same grade at St Leger, Drome and Ceuse on the same trip.  I did get that feeling at the top of a hollow victory because it seemed easy and I couldnt tell if it was just the style, if i was climbing particularly well, or if the routes were easier than the grade suggested.

Onsighting solid 8a+ is pretty hardcore anyway Alan.  Nice one!