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Topcat
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« Reply #45 on: October 10, 2008, 01:06:50 pm » |
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Dave, what was your sequence for the sit-down to The Shield?
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Dave
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« Reply #46 on: October 10, 2008, 01:57:52 pm » |
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For SS Shield: SS RH pocket, LH low good crimp, LH up to small undercut (bottom), match lefthand just above, LH up to notched wide sidedpull (standup start LH), slap RH slopey sidepull (standup start RH). For stand up RH slap, LH slap, double to finish. I use RH to pop RH slopey groove. LF small flakey smear, RF pocket.
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"Self belief is everything: Limitation exists only in the minds of those who see it as an obstacle." - Cold Fusion Blog |
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grobertson
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« Reply #47 on: October 10, 2008, 04:02:57 pm » |
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My GOD! I never knew Scotland has so many folk operating at font7c-8a level !!!  What makes you think that there is Pete?! Go on then - how many on this thread have climbed Font 8a? *runs away with hands over his head, but with one finger up behind him* No need for you to respond Mr Smith  |
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Tim Palmer
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« Reply #48 on: October 10, 2008, 05:19:41 pm » |
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What makes you think that there is Pete?! Go on then - how many on this thread have climbed Font 8a? *runs away with hands over his head, but with one finger up behind him* No need for you to respond Mr Smith 4 (excluding the smith) who have climbed 8a or harder (and not just swiss 8a),and pretty much everyone who has posted an opinion on the grades has climbed at least one other problem at that grade i.e. 7c or harder. I am sorry i took the bait, i couldn't resist. |
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« Last Edit: October 10, 2008, 05:27:25 pm by Tim Palmer »
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Malc Smith
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« Reply #49 on: October 10, 2008, 05:57:41 pm » |
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Sorry, I meant '94 for the shield and bni. I must be getting very old and senile, what year are we on again?
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Topcat
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« Reply #50 on: October 10, 2008, 08:11:33 pm » |
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For SS Shield: SS RH pocket, LH low good crimp, LH up to small undercut (bottom), match lefthand just above, LH up to notched wide sidedpull (standup start LH), slap RH slopey sidepull (standup start RH). For stand up RH slap, LH slap, double to finish. I use RH to pop RH slopey groove. LF small flakey smear, RF pocket.
So, no good undercut? Do you not still have the sliver of rock that fell out of it? |
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Malc Smith
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« Reply #51 on: October 11, 2008, 01:23:17 pm » |
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Firestarter: Scrub my grade doupts, I found a decent sequence and did it this morning. It probably is hard 8A, Dave was right to give it three stars! Dumby sequences, I don't know, I must try harder.
For anyone who wants to do it, here's the beta. RH juggy sidepull, LH jug on left, left heel up on left hand jug, LH cup juggy sidepull,RH tiny crimp on right,LH straight to small press(dont bother using diagonal crimper on way), go again with LH to positive but hard to hold edge below lip(crux),bring RH up to press that you used with left before,right foot on juggy sidepull then scary jump to lip with RH,LH to grassy jug,match then rockover onto slab with right foot.
The challenge now is to link it in with the Pressure start for a hard 8B?
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Dave
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« Reply #52 on: October 11, 2008, 10:59:56 pm » |
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So, no good undercut? Do you not still have the sliver of rock that fell out of it? Hmm, let me think... Its somewhere, we never did decide to stick it back in. |
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"Self belief is everything: Limitation exists only in the minds of those who see it as an obstacle." - Cold Fusion Blog |
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Michael_Lee
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« Reply #53 on: October 12, 2008, 04:20:43 pm » |
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Personally, I'd like the hold repaired. The original method is much better.
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grobertson
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« Reply #54 on: October 13, 2008, 01:56:48 pm » |
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What makes you think that there is Pete?! Go on then - how many on this thread have climbed Font 8a? *runs away with hands over his head, but with one finger up behind him* No need for you to respond Mr Smith 4 (excluding the smith) who have climbed 8a or harder (and not just swiss 8a),and pretty much everyone who has posted an opinion on the grades has climbed at least one other problem at that grade i.e. 7c or harder. I am sorry i took the bait, i couldn't resist. Wow Pete - you're right, you do need to train harder. Either that or just embrace your destiny and go trad climbing... |
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PolishPete
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« Reply #55 on: October 13, 2008, 03:24:04 pm » |
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Ha ha  so trad is my destiny ? Just a shame that I suck at it I think I better START training first and then train HARDER Up for a session on The King ? |
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grobertson
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« Reply #56 on: October 14, 2008, 04:30:01 pm » |
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Ha ha so trad is my destiny ? Just a shame that I suck at it I think I better START training first and then train HARDER Up for a session on The King ? Yeah for sure - once I'm back from Mallorca wi Trev next week, he he he |
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