Is ...

[Wee Davie]

Keep posting. Great to see some good climbing stories on the site.

Davie

[donegal seastack]

A request came from GAA allstar coach and string fiddler, Noble Brother Desmond Oconnor, for a wee bit of guidance in the art of Vertical Pleasure.

 And so, we sat in the car at the An Port road end at 8am Saturday with absolutely lashing rain falling from the Black sky.

 "That'll be the rain on, then?" He asked knowingly.

 "Yep." Came the sagely retort.

 A quick drive down south to Malin Beg, nope, equaly grim. So an even quicker return to our starting point, found us in roasting sunshine, An port road was now much more inviting and hospitable. HURRA!

 "Lets go cane a stack" was the order of the day.

 The object of our desires was the unclimbed 35 metre stack immediately to the south of Berg Stack. (GR544887, compass fans)

 The elected method of access was to boulder hop onto Berg Stack and launch the boat from it's southern end to gain access to the tidal platform below the big chimney running up the center of the seaward face of our stack.

 As this was a bank holiday Neptune was chillin' elsewhere and the sea was gently lapping. HURRA!

 We arrived on the tidal ledge, warm, dry and in high spirits, the darkening of the skies and the rain was duly ignored as a superb cave and large ledge was found 4 mtrs up from our watery stance. The toys and the ever smiling Des came up and an imaginary brunch was had in our subterranean howf.

 With the rains gone and with the sun having donned his hat, we commenced upward.

 From the mouth of the cave, a groove of superb rock was ascended to a much smaller stance at about 20 mtr. A wee recce up the easy angled, loose block jigsaw above the groove rightwards was hastely retreated from. The steeper hand crack on the left was climbed and a final 3 metre deep grot grovel onto the summit ridge was made.

 A summit cairn was built on the summit, pictures taken and an abseil point constructed from a couple of very convenient blocks. We abbed back down our route to the cave, Des down climbed to sea level, rigged a belay and we began to lower the boat and toys for the return sea passage. 

 During this time a local fishing boat made a very, very close drive past, Des at sea level on the tidal ledge. Somewhere in the distance a banjo began to play and Des was sized up to "squeal like a hog, boy." Looks and nods exchanged and they drove away. :-) Oh, how we laughed!

 Neptune was indeed being kind, as the sea was flat calm and we made the return journey to Berg Stack with all the toys in one voyage!

 It was now low tide so we boulder hopped to land and deposited the vessel and all the excess deflowering gear. A spot of lunch was had and we boulder hopped back onto Berg Stack and climbed "The Wedge" an excellent 20 mtr V groove at about severe. Up came Des having now just completed his second ever route. HURRA!

 Alas, the tide had also came in, just far enough that a "Au Naturel" return to land had to be made, nudity on the first date.

 Is this a socialy acceptable modern phenomenon or simply a random act of males on the cusp of mid-life crisis? :-)

 Answers on a postcard to Des.

[Ross]

I must say I'm mightily impressed Iain that you're posting epic Donegal adventures on the Scottish Climbs site but it's livened it up. Keep safe and save one for me! Out on a rib on Saturday and a very fine visit up a sea arch 

[donegal seastack]

The Daddy Stack

It was in the midst of a monsoon 7am on a Sunday morning that the troops gathered on the pier at Burtonport. Noble Brothers Alan Tees and Peter's Cooper and McConnel sat in the gloom as the vertical rods from the black sky rained down. There was hope, the forecast was good. Cha Cha.. :-)

 The object of our desires was the summit of the 150meter unclimbed seastack, Tormore Island, approx 20 NM south of our rain lashed pier. Two of the party had made several attempts at taming this beast previously, so by default the approach of choice today was to be by RIB. Our noble stead was being Captained by Paul Bathgate, a veteran of nautical misadventures along the donegal coastline. Our noble stead it's self was a 76 mph monster of a RIB and we were on our way.

 Now I'm not sure if my fellow cohorts knew what to expect when I mentioned using this type of vessel for an attempt, but apon setting sail and Captian Bathgate opening the throttle a tad, the white knuckles and blank expressions from the troops spoke volumes. Exshellent Mish Moneypenny, We were having mucho fun and we were only 30 seconds in to the adventure.

 Ten minutes later we rounded the North end of Arran Mor into quite atmospheric seas and for the next 40 minutes we got a nautical kicking! Words can't describe the journey suffice to say it was emotional! :-)

 As we arrived at Tormore it was under siege by legions of white horses, Neptune was furious! Our fearless/insane Captain navigated the channel seperating the stack from the land, sensory overload had already been reached and breached as we entered the cauldron of angry white sea. Some pretty amazing boat handling skills left four wide eyed fools on a non-tidal ledge at the bottom of the landward face of Tormore Island. With a "See you at Four" our boat and Captain screamed out of the channel and into the maelstorm!

 And Lo, as ordered the rain stopped and the Sun came out. Happy Days :-) Lets cane the beast we cried in unison.

 The first 45 mtr pitch was a V. Diff affair on superb quarz and growing atmosphere to an excellent block belay.

 We were climbing caterpiller style, meaning as three met the next pitch is led while the fourth is ascending the last? Ehmm, kind of makes sense to me?

 Anyways, as Brother Cooper came up, Brother Tees led off up the second pitch of slabby mixed ground to a lofty perch below the monsterous roofs.

 Pitch three bypassed the roofs on the left and had a modicum of exposure as further mixed ground took us to a huge ledge and superb Peg Belay. Thankfully the discovery of this belay ment we could now defo get off this stack, a minor point of concern I had been pondering all morning! :-)

 Brother McConnel powered up pitch 4, a vertical celebration of grass and mud, Oh and 2 rubbish runners in the first 30 mtrs, a rude awakening to Stack world. The summit ridge was reached and a solitary block belay in an ocean of green was had. One by One we scrambled the last 20 mtr grass ridge a spectacular summit. No-one said very much as savoured where we were. Simply Awesome!

 Photos were taken and evidence of previous visitors sought, non found.Happy Days Indeed!! :-)

 We made an abseil descent of our route, 4 45 mtr abseils using the now insitu peg belays, took us to the non tidal ledge to await our lift home.

 Being last to ab, I arrived at the ledge to an ominous silence. The seas were now crashing either side off the channel and every forth wave threw thousands of tons of green on to the stack opposite us. This was absolutely awesome to watch, alas not so good for our travel arrangments, we had no sleeping bags!

 "What do you think?" Asked Alan.

 "Aw, it'll be fine." came my confident reply. Internaly I considered us to be fracked, if you pardon my french.

 For the next half hour we sat in quiet contemplation, and WHOOSH into the channel came our boat at 50 degrees to Port and riding a monster Greeny, full astern and Captain Bathgate and Crewman Mike Crowe got thrashed about in an astounding display of seamanship, our mighty vessel was getting an almighty kicking. Several passes of our ledge and the luggage was safely stowed. Then for the next 10 minutes the boat stayed in the center of the cauldron riding the chaotic seas.

 "RIGHT, I'M COMING IN AGAIN, I CAN'T SAY IN HERE ANY LONGER, GET IN!" came our orders from Captain B.

 And in he came, a single nano second later we were all in the boat.

 "THANK F*CK FOR THAT!" our nautical maestro roared as we crashed through green to exit the channel and out onto the high seas.

 Now that, Ladies and Gentlemen was a high end emotional exit from a stack.

 The journey back to BurtonPort was bumpy, but in full daylight and sunshine it was excellent sport! Half an hour later saw us in Sheltered water between Arran Mor and Burtonport and Captain B gave the beast full throttle, 60 mph + and we arrived in Burtonport Harbour, a bit like flying on a very very low flying Plane.

 WHAT A SUPERB DAY!

 Big Thanks to Paul Bathgate and Mike Crowe, you crazy fools!     

 

[Billbaz]

Now that's a belter of a read 

[donegal seastack]

Once more myself and the humble, but tetchy Gri-Gri find ourselves at the An Port road end. The original object of todays activities was immediately abandoned due to monstrous southerly motion, Neptune had indeed "entered the building."

 Approx 300 meters directly out to sea from the road end is a perfect 20+ mtr tower of black rock, no monster walk in! HURRA!

 Launched the boat from the road end slip as a large group of hilwalkers assembled out of nowhere, ate sandwitches, drank tea and watched in silence as a solitary clown paddled into the distance. The route to the stack was a long winding one as I had to use the lee of the enroute stacks to avoid the violent southerly motion.

 Upon arrival at the cauldron which seperates the 4 seaward stacks it was all very atmospheric as approx 50 meters all round me monster waves battered the southern faces of all 4 stacks, there was also no way I could land on "Stumpy" of "Chubby" the two most distant of the 6 stacks. What to do....What to do......

 And up popped a diver, don't know who was more surprised, him or me, and up popped another one, they didn't look particuarly pleased to see me and as they were wielding spear gun's, I pressed on.

 Landed the boat on the North side of the 50 mtr bad boy at GR546893, the route to the summit took the center of a superb ramp and through a steep wee rock scar (lightening strike?) and up primary jungle/rubble to an exposed wee summit. Built a cairn and down climbed to the mighty vessel. Rolling Thunder, 80 mtr, V.Diff, was the road to success.

 Launched the boat back into the cauldron and paddled North to land on the East face of the "classic wedge" stack at GR545894. Climbed up the center of the landward face, pulled over onto the seaward ramp and swiftly padded to another exposed summit. The summit block of this beast had defo suffered a lightening strike, so I beat a hasty retreat and down climbed the route to the boat. Fortitude in Distress, 40 mtr, V Diff was the result.

 Immediately to the landward side of this stack "Twin Arch Stack" lives and contains two superb sea arches one through each each of it's legs. Landed the boat on the eastern tip of the south face, using the lee of Rolling Thunder. scrambled up the SW face and up through a very exposed wee totter and on to the exposed pin point summit. Built a cairn and grovelled my way back to the mighty vessel. Twin arch Stack 40m V. Diff was the result of this foray.

 Paddled through the southern sea arch and along several superb wee channels, constantly aware of the deafening roar of the southerly seas. Landed the boat on the western end of the ominous looking stack which overlooks the road end. GR547893. Climbed the west face, up superb rock and a grassy ramp to another superb exposed summit. Built a cairn and down climbed the east face/ramp. Reclimbed the eastern face as a sea level traverse back to the boat looked monsterous. Thus by default, down climbed the western route back to the boat with major concerns. :-( :-( Realm of the Senses, 50 mtr SVRish was the western face and an 80 mtr Moderate climbed the eastern face.

 Felt I had now most defo pushed my luck as far as possible, so an atmospheric paddle through the tidal surge back to the road end slip was made.

 Excellent, Mish Moneypenny!

 Five hours, 4 stacks and many, many moments of mild concern, at the hands of an increasingly tetchy Neptune, today had probably pushed the envelope of what was possible in a small inflatable dingy and a single paddle! :-) Cha Cha

 Soloing, it's not big it's not clever and only the divers can hear you scream. :-)

[Mark]

These are great reads!

Would you mind if they were on the wiki? ScottishClimbs isn't restricted to Scotland and we can lock pages so they can't be edited by others.

[donegal seastack]

Excellent Sir,
 Do as you see fit, , I only write about such matters to amuse those who read about them. The act of being able to ascend "extreme rock" is immaterial in the nautical world, being far from rescue and TOTALY ALONE is the object of the excercise. (All the activities are done with the fact that NO-ONE is aware, until task's are done.) Irresponsible, I hear you cry?  Location dictates rescue is at best hap-hazard.  All I humbly ask is that you refrain from making me sound insane.
 "Sanity is in the mind of the beholder." and "The beholder is totaly Fackin sane."
DS
ps I have 48 unclimbed stacks within an hours drive of home, some are big...some are fackin monsters. BUT don't mention this to the masses! Cha Cha! 

[Chris McDaid]

Hey chief,

Insane? No. Slightly unhinged? Without a doubt!! 

Cheers

[emma]

These look like blog posts to me 

[Dave]

A wee article in here, any photos?

[donegal seastack]

Winter? Cold and Wet? High Winds? Drizzle? and so to An Port..........

 Spurred on by the promise of good weather a day out at An Port was the obvious solution to the crisis! I was not expecting to participate in any foolish endevours, BUT did pack a wee bag of niknaks and party essentials, a 25 kg pick and mix of deflowering gear.

 Arrived at the road end and sat in the car, watched the angry white water as the exeptionally low cloud fell on the windscreen. There was blue sky over Killybegs, 50 KM to the south, it was bound to come here! HURRA!

 Headed North, had a couple of lurking plans, and dependant on conditions......

 An Hour and a few KM's later was at the clifftops overlooking Tormore Island, RESULT! Glenlough Bay.

 Glenlough Bay sits a shade over three KM's from the road end and contains two prominent sea stacks and a tower that sits high and dry on the beach. Descided I'd try wee experiment, in the quest to find the shortest access to Tormore I began to descend the first wide gully down the 200 metre slopes at the south end of Glenlough Bay. Things got  bit sticky half way down, a snow bar and an angel wing abseil saved the day! HURRA!!

 Arrived at the beach facing the largest stack and finally removed the 25 KG beast! The object of my desires was the Big Daddy center stack, at a tad over 60 mtr high and about 50 mtr out to sea. Alas the sea passage was choppy and we landed on the bottom of the landward face soaked and it was not the Tropical blue sea of an An Port summer.  Climbed up to an excellent wee recess on the slabs, secured the boat, sorted the toys and rung out the clothes.

 Rigged the ground anchors and climbed the diagonal crack running upto and across the center of the slabs. After 60 or so meter reached the bottom of a north facing ridge and followed this to the summit. HURRA, a 100 mtr route of atmospheric climbing at about DIFF. Built a cairn and took took photos of future adventues. A full 60 mtr abseil from a big block on the summit ridge and I was back at the boat. 

 ALAS, ALAS, ALAS, the 50 meter channel seperating me from my super sour gummy worms was uncrossable. It was the turn of the high tide and monster rollers were causing grave concern.

 What to do? What to do?

 The solution to the crissis was to climb another route and by then Neptune would hopefully be in a better mood? The second route climbed a direct line up the south edge of the slabs on excellent rock. 75 mtrs of V. DIFF climbing later I was back on the summit. HURRA! Abbed back to the boat, an hour and a half had passed and the channel was a bit friendlier looking! Derigged and packed the toys. Launched the boat and paddled like a loony, as I approached the steep pebble beach a monster curler swallowed me, the boat and the toys whole. A second in the washing machine and we were all high and dry on the beach! HURRA!

 Oh, how we laughed! 

[Wee Davie]

Brilliant again! Bravo. Who needs E12?

Davie

[donegal seastack]

Jenga.   28/11/08 :-)

With nearly a week of blue skies and soaring temperatures in the far west it would have been rude not to seek Vertical Pleasure.

 And so to An Port!

Joining the fray was noble brother Des O'connor, (of, mid life crissis nudity during a Vertical Picnic, fame) our cunning plan was the unclimbed 30 meter quartz tower which sits between the high and low water lines, in Glenlough Bay.

An early start was the order of the day as a 2 and a half hour walk/scramble is the nearest approach route to the beast.

11 am and we stood beneath the ominous looking tower. HMMM, the Seaward face (Massive cave at base, BIG waves and mucho fear) NO, the North Face (for many, many reasons) NO, the Landward Face (suicide) and therefore NO. So, by default, the south face was a goer!

The first pitch took a rising traverse across the south face on superb rock and increasing exposure to a large ledge at the southern end of the seaward face.

The second pitch took a rising traverse across the seaward face, again on superb rock and considerable atmosphere. Alas the upper half of the seaward face is gearless and AHEM, in need of a clean! I'll spare you the details, suffice to say "It was very, very emotional, indeed." A fall from the last 10 or so meters would have been messy!   

As we straddled the summit ridge, savouring the folly of our activities it became painfully obvious that the only way to exit, was a free abseil down the North Face into the mildy tetchy sea.

And with heavy heart we descend.

And so, abseil, mid-air, big wave, brief swim, beach and freezing cold was the natural order of events. HURRA!

Note to self. December, Donegal and swimming in the sea............NO! :-)

Jenga   E2 5a   50m

IN Glenlough Bay, 3 KM North East of the An Port road end a 30 metre tower sits on the beach between the high and low water lines. GR569908. This tower is an extremely serious climb, a fall from the last 12 metres would be fatal.
Pitch 1: 15m 4a. Starting on the high water line at the southern end of the landward face, climb the knobbly quartz to a small stance and make a superb rising traverse above the roofs/cave towards the sea to a large airy ledge above the void.
Pitch 2: 35m 5a. Follow a raising traverse North to the center of the sea ward face. Climb the right trending fault to the southern end of the knife edge summit ridge. Scramble along ridge to summit

:-) 2 questions that niggle, Is it OK to smile, in the face of foolish activities & How much fun can be had at the end of a rope? it's the eternal question!

[donegal seastack]

And sho to Schotland, where thingsh did indeed get wintery.

Arrived in Glen Coe at 11pm, bedded down on the passenger seat of the car and awaited the sun. I was armed with the latest edition of the Scottish Winter Climbs guide and the object of the excersize was 3 or 4 starred routes with the word alpine in the Job Description. Alas I was not aware at this juncture what was to follow in the coming week, the essence of any great adventure is a journey in which the outcome is uncertain. Let the games begin....

6am and I was awoked by troops sorting their toys!

Window down and from the cosyness of the down bag, "Where you heading men?" I enquired.

And thus we were three.

Sron Na Lairig is a 300mtr offshoot ridge at the head of Lairig Eilde with a 4 KM walk in and mucho atmosphere. We solod the first 200 or so metres and roped up for the final steepening and awesome ridge pitches. We arrived on the parent ridge and battled our way to the summit of Stob Coire Sgreamhach through the howling fury of Scottish winter winds. A spot of nav on the summit and we traversed the Beinn Fhada ridge. The day was topped off by a 600 metre bum slide to the valley floor. Why walk when you can fly? An awesome way to start to the week!!

The following day I ventured up Curved Ridge accompanied only by my inner demons. The conditions were very unnerving, a foot of overnight snow on the main road and heavy laden slopes, zero visibility and a heavy sense of doom.

 Passed the first steepening and stood listening to the roar of a nearby avalanche. Threw myself to the ground, buried the axe, cuddled it and waited to die.

And like a snake I slithered.

leaving the white world behind.

In emptiness, I arose, into daylight i arrived.

Descended to the car hastely, Shaken not Shtirred, another day and another brief visit from The Reeper.

And sho to the Ben....

Left the North face car park at 4am, the forecast was absolutely awesome and I was in very high spirits. Climbed the left hand varient to The Curtain Rail and followed Ledge Route to the summit of Carn Dearg, alas it was now only 0710am.

What to do? What to do?

Descended the ledge route arete to the Pinnacle block and traversed into No5 Gully, climbed it to the summit of Carn Dearg. HURRA! Alas it was now only 0905am.

What to do? What to do?

Descended No 4 Gully and climbed North Gully, descended No 4 Gully again and traversed into No3 Gully. Climbed No3 Gully and continued to the summit of the Mighty Ben Nevis. Apologies to all I met on these routes that day, HMMM,  I was kinda "in The Zone," wide eyed and ranting would be nearer the mark! But hey  I was having more fun than I thought possible with a single walking axe and a pair of flexie crampons!

The following day a return to the Mighty Ben was made. This time armed with the Ice Monster Tony stone, another ealy start and we romped up Tower Ridge in Awesome weather and conditions! HURRA!! Tower Ridge was ABSOLUTELY AWESOME, mucho exposure and a huge sense of "Look at me I'm F*cking alive." Thingsh just couldn't be better!! HURRA!! Alas this took us to the summit at 1100am

What to do? What to do?

A quick descent of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete followed by a 500mtr steep ice traverse across Coire Leis and we began to ascend The North-East Buttress. Much less shelter on this ridge with blinding spindrift and an awesome atmosphere. Whilst Brother Stone cruised the mantrap, I struggled spurned on by his carmera work and internal grins! :-) An absolutely awesome day and without a doubt the best day I've ever had in the mountains! It was also the first tme I've used Tech ice tools and my forearms were pumped out their tiny minds!! :-)

The following day was a rest day so a quick romp of the Forcan ridge, again accompanied only by my inner demons. 

And so to The Cobbler.

Another very early start from Loch Long was the order of the day. Climbed Chockstone Gully and The Great Gully to the summit of North Peak, it was now 0700am and the sunrise over Ben Lomond had me in tears. Words fail me, it was simply excellent! Proof of the existance of a higher being is in that what we seek. Anyways, I digress, traversed the central peak and descended to the bottom of Central Gully. Climbed Central Gully to the steep chockstone and became absolutely stuck. After much, much, much thrashing and grunting I took a BIGGIE. Popped off and cartwheeled/bounced down the steep face below, 100 or so meters later I lay on a pile of fresh snow, puked, cried and laughed as I slowly checked all body parts for damage. None found!! HURRA!

TIME TO GO HOME. 

So that's Scottish Winter?

Excellent, Mish Moneypenny!

Massive thanks to all the troops I met on this visit and I trust a visit to Donegal would be in order as I have a cunning plan or 3.......... :-)