Pongo finish???

[allyf]

What's the official finish on pongo?

Are you allowed to go left into the finish of slap happy? I always thought you had to rock-over from the jugs and grab the big jutting block.....which is a good bit harder than scampering leftwards.

Not that it's important.....just out of interest!

[Michael_Lee]

I've always gone left to slap happy on account of the jutting block looks dirty and loose (but I'm probably wrong). Bouldering in Scotland says top out direct... so i guess that makes it the offical method.

[allyf]

Yeah, it was the difference between "bouldering in scotland" and the method that most people I've seen use that got me thinking! (i find the direct finish the hardest bit!)

[buzby]

If you want to tick any problem at Dumby and this goes for most places I would say, topping out direct is obligatory. Once you have done this, easier variations to finishes are acceptable.

[buzby]

I heard that the sit-start to Pongo is now font 7b+ with a new sequence. Anyone care to share the new beta?

[Niall McNair]

Buzby,

Basically 10-20cm above the chockstone is a slanting gap which is perfect as a "three finger knuckle jam" for your right hand- feels likes a jug if you get it right...I've heard people complaining that it's too painful to use but they must be doing something wrong....

Try to get your knuckles sorted so that the middle finger slides down between the index and the ring finger and provides enough pressure across the three knuckles.  Might be dependent on the size of your hands though!

[buzby]

Cheers Niall, will have to go check out this radical new sequence and of course i'll be topping out direct! 

[Zorro]

Dont you go gettin all high and mighty aboot taking the direct line on routes now master Busby.  Remember what we all witnessed last week at Gordale, when you mannaged to turn a 7b+ in to a new e12, due to some shall we say rather un-direct climbing! 

With regards to Pongo- who cares? get your arse down to Neilston and join in the 2008 old school revolution!!

[Tim Palmer]

it may well be easier but it is a horrendous way to do an otherwise nice problem, i don't care what you say niall, it is horrendous.

[Topcat]

it may well be easier but it is a horrendous way to do an otherwise nice problem, i don't care what you say niall, it is horrendous.

Yes, but Niall's a masochist.

[buzby]

Dont you go gettin all high and mighty aboot taking the direct line on routes now master Busby. 

I was talking about boulder problems you strange basalt hating weirdo! However, a little gentle meandering on routes is acceptable in my books, especially if you can miss out the hard bits! 

[Niall McNair]

it may well be easier but it is a horrendous way to do an otherwise nice problem, i don't care what you say niall, it is horrendous.

... it's not horrendous, it's easier!  And it's the only for me cos I am too weak to do it the original way!

So what's to become of the grading for Pongo?  Given that's it was scotland first fb8a, it does have legend/classic status.   But then isn't the grading for the easiest method?  In which case, it should now be fb7b+...





...that'll piss off quite a few folks eh?  After all if a route becomes downgraded (due to a new sequence)  then you can't really claim the higher grade even if you climbed the route before it got downgraded... 

Topcat:
A masochist am I?  I suppose I do enjoy my sessions with Helga 

[Tim Palmer]

yeah i would give it a 4 with either sequence

[Topcat]

I am too weak to do it the original way!

Rrrrrrrrrrrubbish.

Doing the moves isn't the problem - it's not falling off. I reckon your problem is that you lack the patience required to work out how to effectively wriggle your fingers into The Hold, Mr. Onsight... 

[John S Watson]

My tuppence worth to this chestnut...

I think the problem is still damned hard with the knuckle jam, especially through the sit start, which I reckon should be  give it a 'morpho' qualification as slim fingers will find it desperate!

The stand-up direct, (which most people start with to work the problem), with the 'new method' might be 7b+ in itself... the knuckle jam is painful but so is the old method of crimping the block, I think there's not much difference between the two from a stand-up start (static)!

My point is I think the old version in its entirety might still merit 8a (though some strong suckers may say 7c), the new method from sit I reckon 7c... the sitter makes it longggg and the crux is actually setting yourself to hold the block right... how many attempts does it take to get through this? I've failed hundreds of times coming in from the sitter and it still eludes me... though the stand up (either method) is a lot easier.

So 8a? I don't know,leave it to those who have climbed 8a elsewhere...?

I say remove the loose block and it all gets so much more fun (only joking)!!